THE LONG AND SHORT OF IT ~
Type: Ring
Materials: 18k Gold, Diamond
Size: 8 1/2, 1 1/3 Carat Tdw
Era: Victorian (1837-1901)
ABOUT:
Those that follow me I'm sure see my weakness for diamond clusters and navettes are a personal fav - I love their drama! This one does not disappoint. Amazing sparkle to the completely encrusted ring face that is set with 21 old mine cut diamonds. This piece is crafted in 18k gold with the ring face / prongs topped in a white precious metal as was customary for the period to set diamonds in a white metal. This one I believe is topped in silver (I did not want to scratch test the ring face to confirm). The outside edges of the ring have a cut down collet appearance.
Sturdy D Shank with a rich antique yellow gold patina, it has a UK stamp 18CT for 18k gold.
MEASUREMENTS:
Exact depth of the diamonds is unknown as I would not remove them. The dealer I purchased it from estimated it at over 1.5 carats but with my measurements and using online calculators, I am getting closer to 1 1/3 carat total weight / 1.35Tdw so I am listing it as such to be conservative. The largest center old mine cut measures about 4.6mm. The others are in the 2 to 2.5mm range with the two end stones and two spacers a bit smaller at 1.7mm.
The ring is a size 8 1/2 and weighs 4.9g. The ring face is 23x9.2mm and stands 5mm tall off the finger. The ring shoulders adjacent to the face are 3.5mm north south tapering towards the back but remaining sturdy all the way around, and 2.5mm thick / tall.
IMPORTANT CONDITION NOTES:
Please note that all my pieces are pre-owned and in estate condition. This one is in all original condition with some wear to the silver face and on a piece of this age with many stones, we usually recommend gentler or even special occasion wear. Because some of the prongs may need reinforcing for daily wear. This can always be done - (you'd want to find a jeweler with a laser welder). We do expect to find this on pieces of this age and while many modern jewelers may advise you to make it "like new" many of my buyers prefer keeping the piece in original condition and wearing it more gently. A few of the stones move the tiniest bit but none come free with pressure of course.
Typical antique diamonds with some natural inclusions, a few carbon feathers or specks, a frosty spot here or there. Only very slightly eye visible if at all. Still - A Wonderful and impactful antique sparkler. I love antique diamonds, even those with inclusions or hues typical for the time, because some of those were still among the best available in the market during that period, and were expertly cut by hand to enhance their best characteristics. So I don’t often like to compare antique stones against modern grading standards - BUT these diamonds, for old stones have a particularly lovely fire reflecting a noticeable flash with the other colors of the rainbow. So even though the ring was made long before the 4 C's existed, it sparkles really beautifully. I'm amazed by it now as I wear it in low light how glittery it is. Some slightly warm hues also typical for the period (and even sought after!) - they all match each other well so no glaring dingy-ness at all in my opinion. She's a beauty!
But - Please note due to age, this piece is not in mint condition. Pictures also serve as part of the description and condition report so please utilize the zoom feature which will magnify any wear significantly more than what is visible to the eye while wearing : )
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SOCIAL:
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About Antique Diamonds:
The whole "4 C's" of cut, color, clarity, carat didn't come about until the 1940s so prior to that and especially on antique pieces, there was not as much emphasis placed on those things. (Sure people probably appreciated a certain look of a certain diamond as it appeared to the eye but it was not a graded scale like we have today.) So it is difficult to judge antique stones against modern day diamonds and their grading system. No two old cuts are the same as they were crafted in times lacking any modern standards. The diamond cutters of the time were experts at hand cutting each stone to enhance it which means that even lower color grades can be cut to appear whiter. (Although it is also worth noting that many antique collectors prefer and seek out antique diamonds with warmer hues.)
It is also interesting that "lower graded" diamonds in today's scale system, were some of the best on the market during this period! So it is less about their grades and more about the unique play of light and color that each one can offer. I read one article that put it: “When searching for the perfect old cut diamond (for you), you need to view them through different eyes as you would for a modern diamond, Laboratory grading reports don’t offer too much information in regards to their individual beauty or sparkle which are based more on their individual character and uniqueness that each one potentially offers.”
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