THE LONG AND SHORT OF IT ~
Type: Ring
Materials: 18k Gold, Diamond, Platinum
Size: 5 1/2, 22g, 5 1/4 Carats
Era: Art Deco 1920s to 1950
ABOUT:
This one is a rare investment to be sure! Special, one of a kind vintage to antique Van Cleef & Arpels ring in 18k gold and platinum with a tall platform face set with around 5 1/4 carats of transitional cut diamonds.
Show stopping doesn't begin to describe this ring and all that it has going for it. The ring boasts 33 diamonds in total - the largest at center measuring around 1.6 carats alone, flanked by a .85 carat diamond on each side. Amidst those are set additional diamonds leading to a scalloped halo of 20 smaller diamonds to completely encrust the ring face. The piece has a very sturdy hand feel weighing 21.6 grams, with ribbed sides and hand engraved scroll details on the vertical edges of the gallery. The gold is a buttery, glowing rich 18k gold with some warm highlights, with the large oval platform of the ring face topped in platinum as was customary to set diamonds in a white metal.
The diamonds are transitional cut, bright white in color with excellent fire. Each transitional cut diamond in existence is fairly unique, as the cutters worked to achieve the best possible light performance and brilliance for each stone. As such, the cuts were not based on the specific criteria of machine cut diamonds today, rather based on each individual stone. This type of cut, also referred to as "Early American Cut" results in a diamond that is slightly more antique in appearance, while still retaining the brightness and fire of a modern brilliant, as they were the first round diamonds of their kind featuring symmetry never before seen to that point. The transitional cut method began in the 1920s, so named as a transition from the Old European Cut. This method was used a relatively short time until the 1940s when the modern brilliant cut, with the mathematically perfected proportions that we see today (and its "Four C's") was developed and then took the place of these transitional cuts. The ring dates to the Art Deco period (1919 to 1939) to mid century.
For a fine jewelry enthusiast or collector, Van Cleef & Arpels is on the short list of top jewelry brands consistently appreciating in value year after year, coveted for their beauty, fine craftsmanship and design. Their history is one of prestige, innovation and quality. Their name is synonymous with luxury, sought after by aristocrats and royalty alike - Grace Kelly and Prince Rainier, Edward VIII for Wallace Simpson, Elizabeth Taylor, Greta Garbo, and a princess of Egypt all the way through time to many celebrities in the modern day. The vintage pieces particularly continue to increase in value, with most considered to be the only one of their kind.
The brand is named for the married couple who founded. it. Estelle Arpels, daughter of a dealer in precious stones, married Alfred Van Cleef, son of a lapidary craftsman and diamond broker. They married in Paris in 1895 and in 1906, they opened their boutique at 22 Place Vendôme.
I acquired this in France where it was being sold amidst a collection of a prominent family in the area. They had four pieces of Van Cleef in this collection along with other pieces of high end jewelry, and the dealer has a gemologist and authenticator on site, however they did not provide any paperwork on it. Certainly the finest piece of my career thus far. Please note the measurements as I have small fingers and it can be difficult to determine scale from pictures.
HALLMARKS:
The ring has all the correct hallmarks - It is stamped with the French eagle hallmark for 18k gold, the dog head for stamp for platinum, and the goldsmith stamp for Van Cleef and Arpels in the diamond shaped lozenge with VCA and the tower of Vendôme in Paris.
The piece is also signed "Van Cleef & Arpels" with the serial number 59923 around the interior rim.
Lastly, It comes in its original box which is a brown fabric lined with silk and stamped inside the lid "Van Cleef & Arpels 22.Place Vendôme Paris" in gold foil.
Original box is included as shown - other boxes, props, staging items not included.
MEASUREMENTS:
Ring is a size 5 1/2. The weight is 21.6g so it is quite the golden nugget. The ring face is 1.1 inch wide (29mm) by 19mm north south and 9mm tall off the finger.
Exact depths and thereby exact carat weights of each diamond are unknown as I would not remove them from the setting. But using estimates, the largest center stone is 7.6mm and around 1.6 to 1.7 carat alone. The other two larger diamonds are 6.1mm / around 0.85 carat each. The 20 diamonds in the halo are 2.9mm each with ten additional diamonds in the face measuring 1.6 for the smallest six and 2.5mm for the other four. Total carat weight comes to around 5 1/4 carat / 5.25 Ctw Tdw.
IMPORTANT CONDITION NOTES:
I love vintage and antique diamonds, even those with inclusions or hues typical for the time, because some of those were still among the best available in the market during that period, and were expertly cut by hand to enhance their best characteristics. Not to mention set in fabulous gold work / settings. As mentioned these stones were cut before the "4 C's grading standards / scale for machine cut diamonds was invented - BUT the fire on these diamonds! It's almost blinding as I study the piece under lit magnification. Incredible sparkle and brilliancy to the stones as expected for pieces by this maker. Typical for vintage and antique stones, there is one small carbon speck which is very very slightly eye visible in the largest center diamond just under the table and one needle inclusion to one of the adjacent stones that is seen only under magnification. There are some smaller speck inclusions to the outlining halo of diamonds here or there but this is even less noticeable as they are smaller stones. I'm amazed by it now as I wear it in low light how substantial and sparkly the piece is. The diamonds have frosted girdles and very small open culets, both of which serve as indicators of their age. No nicks or chips or frosty spots or flakes of loss.
To the gold work, no dents or anything misshapen but some nicks and surface wear from age that can catch the light due to the original mirrored finish. This could be professionally buffed / polished if desired but most of my buyers prefer their vintage pieces to not appear brand new so I always sell them as I receive them. As expected with age, some of the outlining stones move slightly from wear to the prongs over the years, but as this ring is quite substantial, it is by nature more of a candidate for special occasion wear. So this would be a case where we would typically like to see things stay in as original condition as possible. Some organic wear from age to the hallmarks due to their appropriate location for French pieces being on the back outside of the shank. The box also has signs of wear, with the round bracket to hold the shank missing the reinforcement on one side, so it can spin in the holder, but doesn't rattle around as the silk lined lid surrounds the ring shape from being formed for it and around it over the years.
But - Please note due to age, this piece is not in mint condition. Pictures also serve as part of the description and condition report so please utilize the zoom feature which will magnify any wear significantly more than what is visible to the eye while wearing : )
Expedited shipping with signature and insurance will be included army cost.
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