ABOUT:
This one is among my all time best!
Iconic and special French vintage ring from the Art Deco to early retro period at the latest. This attention grabbing piece holds an exceptional, eye clean, chunky emerald cut natural diamond measuring just under four carats alone. It is flanked by a baguette cut diamond on each side. This superb piece is crafted in platinum with sturdy prongs ready for daily wear. Also very special for a vintage diamond ring - the stone has no nicks or nibbles, no frosty flakes of loss, no damage whatsoever, just some wear to the setting and hallmark which we actually like to see to confirm age.
Combining all that with the amazing fire of the special stone, it is an extraordinary piece. The classic emerald cut is found in the engagement rings of Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall, Elizabeth Taylor and Grace Kelly, the latter two in very similar settings to this ring, with the Art Deco style (Grace Kelly's was by Cartier) and baguette accents on each side (albeit on a larger scale : )
The center stone and piece both definitely have some age to them with corner facets not all uniform which I was excited to see under magnification for age (despite this not being evident while wearing to the eye). With a clarity rating of SI1, the chunky diamond with large open culet faces up clear / eye clean with the speck inclusions hidden in the faceting and angle of the cuts, thus seen only when studying through the piece from the side.
I don’t typically rely on the "Four C’s" for vintage and antique diamonds, cut in a much more limited supply than the millions of carats of modern diamonds created each year now. This is partly because the grades can be misleading, don't do these very rare stones justice, and the quirks are part of their history and character - but this one does come with a certificate for the center stone. The cert is dated 2011, but the ring is earlier, from the late Art Deco to retro period. It has the French hallmark for platinum that was discontinued in the early 90s, but we can also tell from looking at the stone, with its larger culet, chunky cut, and while studying the girdle. Because I purchased it in France, the certification is from Carat Gem Lab in France (there is no GIA in France) and is in French and English, thus matching the provenance of the piece. As typical for many gem reports, it does not specify age.
The certificate describes the large center natural diamond as a rectangular step cut. The term “step cut” encompasses emerald cuts, asscher cuts, and baguette cuts. This one is closest to an emerald cut but with the larger rectangular culet that isn’t over long, it has some asscher cut tendencies as well.
PROVENANCE: Found in the French Riviera on my last inventory / sourcing trip.
Some of the photos in the listing have a lot of nature and sea views occurring in the background, but I wanted to share with the buyer the provenance of where I purchased this piece. The ring photographed beautifully there so I wanted those images to remain a part of the ring’s story (and I have about 100 more if interested).
While there on the sourcing trip, I couldn’t help but take the ring out for a spin one day. Mr. Mouse had joined me on the trip for a few days so we had much to catch up on and discuss. While enjoying the most beautiful lunch overlooking the water (see my Instagram post to get the full picture), Mr. Mouse commented quietly that the three young ladies at the adjacent table had noticed the ring and were enthusiastically gesturing to eachother about it (but trying to be discreet). About that time, the husband and wife sitting at the table behind us must have been blinded by the shooting rainbows because she grabbed her husband’s attention to also point at the ring. Of course I noticed none of this, chatting away with my back to the action but it will always be a funny memory for us. We also had a laugh that I had paired the piece with my minimalist Georgian era gold band (no other jewelry), a $6 top, converse tennies and my $10 sunglasses. Anyway, it was a surreal moment that we will not forget and I can safely tell you, having worn it out and about, that it is a major head turner.
HALLMARK:
French symbol hallmark for platinum that is since discontinued.
Please note the measurements as I have small fingers and it can be difficult to determine scale from pictures. Antique box is not included.
MEASUREMENTS:
Currently measures about a size 6 1/2 as far as fit. It currently has two little beads soldered inside the band which makes it difficult to get an exact size on a mandrel. These beads can be intended for arthritic knuckles, to slide over the larger knuckle and still fit snugly at the skinnier base of the finger. Or perhaps more likely in this case, to provide tension against the base of the finger to keep the large diamond from spinning as the piece is quite top heavy. This can easily be removed by any jeweler but was perfect for me while wearing as it never needed adjusting, remaining proudly face up.
The ring weighs 4.6 grams. Ring face is 7.5mm tall off the finger to the table.
The center diamond is 10.65mm by 8.58mm by 5.16mm, measuring 3.97 carats. The side diamonds are about 3.5mm baguettes and about 0.08 carat each. Total carat weight is a little over 4.1 carats.
The certificate states it is K in color. This delicious palest yellow touch of warmth can be slightly detectible in some light but the diamond faces up a bright and fiery white in most conditions and does not generally read as a warm stone to the eye. In outdoor light the stone almost looks blue at times, seemingly reflecting its ambiance. Type 1 natural diamond with medium florescence and "good" grades for polish and symmetry.
IMPORTANT CONDITION NOTES:
One area of very faint inclusion on the stone is hidden under the wide corner prongs. Studying the piece there is a very small carbon speck and a thinner carbon needle but these were expertly hidden in cutting so the diamond faces up eye clean. There is also a small shadow inclusion on one edge that is seen under lit magnification, but amazing to find a stone of this age and size so clean. I look at vintage antique diamonds all day every day and this is a special stone.
Surface wear to the setting and wear to the hallmark but no damage anywhere to the stone. It is possible the girdle was touched up at some point, possibly having been frosted when it was cut originally before modern developments but it appears polished now, medium to slightly thick. One of the small side baguettes has some shallow flakes of loss to the underside on one far edge but as it is underneath the stone, it still appears complete and fills the bezel completely with just the frosty area on the very edge seen if you are studying the side stone, so again not glaring while wearing the piece.
Please note that all my pieces are pre-owned and in estate condition. They may have patina, surface wear, a few small nicks. I have mentioned any noticeable issues above and they are all still wearable and eager to be loved and accepted for many years to come, (the preservation of antique jewelry, even those with signs of their age and history, is important to me. : )
But - Please note due to age, this piece is not in mint condition. Pictures also serve as part of the description and condition report so please utilize the zoom feature which will magnify any wear significantly more than what is visible to the eye while wearing : )
Very sweet piece from a very special era. I enjoy making my customers happy and matching unique pieces with new homes. Please feel free to reach out to me with any questions! It means a lot to me that you are visiting my shop! : )
SOCIAL:
Please feel free watch @mouseshouseantiques on Instagram for inventory drops, sneak peaks and previews! And check out my website www.MousesHouseAntiques.com as I can add more pics there so you can get extra looks : )
All items hand picked by me, one at a time from all over the world. All listings individually written by me, and not AI, after studying each piece to discuss its beauties and its ; ) eccentricities (which I am picky to point out).
Box#vum.1!$2
